Come molti ben sanno la stagionalità della moda non ha nulla a che vedere con il susseguirsi annuale di estate e inverno, infatti la presentazione delle collezioni non combacia con la meteorologia, spesso confondendo le idee dei non addetti ai lavori. Non tutti però sanno che questa stagionalità sfalsata risponde ad esigenze di mercato ben precise: innanzitutto le collezioni vengono presentate con largo anticipo per far si che ci sia il tempo necessario per farle arrivare ai retailer; successivamente va tenuto in considerazione che i grandi brand agiscono su di un mercato globale, in cui convivono contemporaneamente più stagioni, quando qui è estate in Australia è inverno e così via. Inoltre la stagionalità alternativa della moda causa numerose incongruenze all'interno delle collezioni; non vi è mai capitato di notare un abitino un po' troppo leggero in una collezione invernale o un capo in pelliccia in un'estiva?!
A "complicare" ulteriormente la situazione ci pensano le pre-collezioni, cioè collezioni infra stagionali, che anticipano le collezioni da passerella. Quelle estive prendono il nome di cruise o resort e sono disponibili nei negozi a novembre (un mese prima dell'arrivo degli estivi a dicembre), mentre le invernali prendono il nome di pre-fall e sono disponibili nei negozi a giugno (i capi invernali arrivano a luglio). Le pre mantengono viva l'attenzione del pubblico, rinnovando continuamente l'offerta, la loro caratteristica principale è quella di offrire capi adatti al quotidiano, che raramente si trovano nelle collezioni da passerella, più improntate sulla scenografia che sull'effettiva utilità dei capi.
Questo continuo rinnovo però rende brevissima la vita degli abiti; ciò che è nuovo un minuto prima diventa passato e già visto il minuto dopo!
Come giudicare allora queste pre-collezioni? Sono un bene oppure non hanno alcuna utilità?
A voi l'ardua sentenza!
As many are well aware of fashion's seasons have nothing to do with the annual succession of summer and winter, in fact the collections' presentation does not match the weather, often confusing ideas of those who know a little about fashion. Moreover not everyone knows that this staggered seasonality responds to precise trade demands: first of all the collections are presented well in advance to ensure that there's sufficient time to bring them to retailers; then it should be taken into account that important brands operate on a global market in which simultaneously coexist different seasons, when here it is summer in Australia is winter and so on. In addition, the alternative nature of fashion seasonality produces numerous inconsistencies in the collectios: have you ever noticed a bit' too light dress in a winter collection or a fur garment in a summer one?!
To further "complicate" the situation there are pre-collections, that is, midseason collections, which anticipate catwalks ones. Summer pre are known as cruise or resort and are available in stores in November (one month before the summer arrivals in December), while winter pre are called pre-fall and are available in June (winter clothes arrive in July). Pre-collections keep the public attention alive, continually renewing the offer; their main feature is that they offer garments suitable for everyday life, which are rarely found in catwalks' collections more marked on the show than on the usefulness of clothes.
This constant renewal, however, makes short the life of clothes; what was new a minute ago becomes old and already seen the next minute!
So how to judge these pre-collections? Are they good and useful or are they wrong?
You will judge!
T.
A voi l'ardua sentenza!
As many are well aware of fashion's seasons have nothing to do with the annual succession of summer and winter, in fact the collections' presentation does not match the weather, often confusing ideas of those who know a little about fashion. Moreover not everyone knows that this staggered seasonality responds to precise trade demands: first of all the collections are presented well in advance to ensure that there's sufficient time to bring them to retailers; then it should be taken into account that important brands operate on a global market in which simultaneously coexist different seasons, when here it is summer in Australia is winter and so on. In addition, the alternative nature of fashion seasonality produces numerous inconsistencies in the collectios: have you ever noticed a bit' too light dress in a winter collection or a fur garment in a summer one?!
To further "complicate" the situation there are pre-collections, that is, midseason collections, which anticipate catwalks ones. Summer pre are known as cruise or resort and are available in stores in November (one month before the summer arrivals in December), while winter pre are called pre-fall and are available in June (winter clothes arrive in July). Pre-collections keep the public attention alive, continually renewing the offer; their main feature is that they offer garments suitable for everyday life, which are rarely found in catwalks' collections more marked on the show than on the usefulness of clothes.
This constant renewal, however, makes short the life of clothes; what was new a minute ago becomes old and already seen the next minute!
So how to judge these pre-collections? Are they good and useful or are they wrong?
You will judge!
T.
Intanto un assaggio di alcune delle pre-fall che ho preferito.
Meanwhile, a glimpse of the pre-fall I preferred.
Meanwhile, a glimpse of the pre-fall I preferred.
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